CASUAL MALE XL

STYLE GLOSSARY

WHAT DO THOSE TERMS MEAN?

#s

100's, 110's or 120's Cotton: a measure of the fineness (or thinness) of cotton; the higher the number, the finer the cotton

1/4-Top Front Pocket: pocket opening equal to approximately one-fourth of the distance between side/hip seam and zipper

A

Abzorb®: in footwear, a polyurethane-based material in midsole provides shock absorbency and reduces stress on body

Acrylic: manmade fiber with a soft, wooly hand and excellent color retention properties; dries quickly and resists wrinkles

Anorak: hooded pullover with zipper that does not run full length of front; less bulky than a standard jacket

Antibacterial Finish: treatment to material that makes it resistant to, or prevents the growth of, bacteria

Anti-Microbial Finish: treatment applied to garments to reduce presence of odor-causing bacteria

Antique Finish: achieved through a sanding and washing process for an aged look

B

Back Pleats: folds in the material that allow for better comfort and freedom of movement

Back Side Elastic: sections of elastic on the waistband of pants or shorts, usually starting behind the hip seam for several inches, which allows extra give in the waist

Back Yoke: fabric that connects the back to the shoulders, allowing garment to lay flat and drape nicely

Banded Collar: low collar that stands up straight and is buttoned in front

Barrel Cuff: fastens with button; some feature two buttons for adjusting fit

Basketweave: checkerboard pattern in which threads are woven into a loosely constructed fabric; popular in lighter weight styles

Besom Pocket: inset pocket finished with a narrow welted edge that frames the pocket opening; used on more formal, tailored styles

Bicycle Toe: shoe with a one-piece upper and toe, flanked by squared off stitching lines

Bit: metal ornament across the instep of a loafer or slip-on shoe

Blucher: dress shoe where sides and lacing are sewn on top of the vamp or on a piece of leather that covers the toe

Bomber Jacket: usually of leather or nylon, with two front pockets and zippered front, sometimes with sheepskin lining; originally called flight jackets, designed to keep bomber pilots warm

Bounce® Technology: reduces stress on feet by absorbing and then releasing back the energy generated from walking, putting a 'bounce' in your step

Box Pleat: a pleat with folded edges facing in opposite directions, usually found on the center back pleat of a dress or sport shirt

Broadcloth: fine, tightly woven fabric with subtle ribbing

Brushed: finishing process in which the mill mechanically brushes the knit or woven fabric to varied degrees of softness

Button-Down Collar: woven shirt collar that lies flat on the neck; collar points are anchored with buttons

Button-Through Pocket: features button on inside of pocket, buttonhole on outside of pocket

C

Calfskin: high-quality, fine-grain leather that is supple, yet extremely durable

Cambrelle®: tough synthetic liner used in shoes and boots that is absorbent, breathable, and odor-resistant

Camp Shirt: a loose fitting, short sleeved button-down shirt, featuring a straight bottom that is meant to be left untucked, and an open, one-piece collar

Cap Toe: dress shoe with extra layer of leather 'capping' the toe, enhanced by a horizontal seam

Cargo Pocket: expandable, military-inspired pocket with side pleats, sewn to the shell of the garment

Chambray: a dressier fabric with white threads woven across colored threads

Chukka: lace-up ankle boot, usually with two or three eyelets

Classic Fit: sits just below natural waist; comfortable fit through rise and thigh

Color Blocking: technique in which blocks of various fabrics are sewn together to create patterns of different colors

ColorBond®: finishing process that allows garments to retain their dark coloring much longer, even after numerous washings

Combed Cotton: process that removes all short fibers and impurities from cotton for a superior, smoother and more compact yarn

Comfort Curve®: in footwear, outsoles that flex where your feet flex for maximum comfort

Comfort-Fit: pants sit at the waist and fit loosely in the seat and thigh

Contoured Footbed: an insole that molds to the shape of the foot

Cool & Dry: fabric enhancement that absorbs moisture quickly

Coolmax®: fiber with superior wicking properties, moving moisture away from the skin and speeding cooling through evaporation

Cordura: a strong nylon that resists abrasions and tears

D

Dacron®: polyester fiber with high strength and great resistance to stretching and wrinkling

Denier: weight measurement used to refer to the fineness of a yarn or fiber; the higher the number, the heavier the fiber

Distressed Finish: process that gives the garment a used or uneven appearance

DMX Foam: in footwear, a proprietary foam that delivers superb cushioning; more consistent and longer lasting than standard midsole formulations

Dobby Weave: a decorative weave, characterized by small designs or geometric figures woven into the fabric

Double-Barrel Cuff: fastens with two buttons, either horizontally or vertically

Drape: the way in which cloth falls relative to its flexible characteristics; the finer the fiber, the better the drape

Dri-Lex®: multi-zone system transports moisture away from skin, keeping the fabric layer closest to the skin dry, cool and comfortable

Driver: casual shoe with rubber nubs as sole; also referred to as 'driving shoes'

Drop-Needle Stitching: knitting technique that provides a slightly ribbed effect, with thin parallel lines, dots, or other designs formed at set intervals

Dropped Shoulder Seams: provide a roomier fit and unrestricted movement

Dry-Action™: dries two times faster than cotton, quickly removes perspiration, and can be machine washed and dried

E

Easy-Care: fabrics that are restored to their original appearance after laundering, with little or no ironing required

Egyptian Cotton: fine, lustrous long staple cotton that is stronger than most other cotton and usually found in superior quality clothing

Elastane: a synthetic fiber known for its outstanding elasticity; it is stronger and more durable than rubber

Enzyme Washed: fabric is washed in chemicals to soften and give appearance of being worn

Epaulet: a band of fabric, often attached with a button, that adorns the shoulder of a jacket or shirt, styled with a military look

EVA: (ethylene vinyl acetate) lightweight, shock-absorbing synthetic rubber commonly used in shoe insoles and midsoles

EVA Smart Comfort Biorhythmic Chassis: channels air through a series of interconnected chambers to provide cushioning, spread impact force, and absorb shocks

Extended Button-Tab Closure: creates a smoother appearance in waistband

F

Footbed: another term for the insole that runs the entire length of the shoe

Forefoot: the broad, front section of the shoe between the ball and the toes

French Cuff: two ends are pressed together and fastened with cuff links

French Terry Cotton: features looping and piling of the fabric on one side only; the fabric is lighter and cooler and offers plenty of stretch

Full-Grain Leather: retains the top or outer surface of the hide, which contains dense, tight fibers that are water-resistant and supportive

Fused Collar: processed collar with special interlining laminated to outer layer of shirt, to minimize wrinkling and wilting

G

Gabardine: sturdy, tightly woven fabric of cotton, wool, or rayon twill

Garment Dyed: process of dyeing a garment after it's been constructed, giving seams a darker and more worn look

Garment Washed: process of washing garment after it is constructed to produce a softer feel

Gingham: lightweight, yarn-dyed fabric with a checkered pattern

Glen Plaid: a group of stripes run vertically and horizontally to form a boxlike pattern

Goodyear Welt: shoe's insole is attached to the welt, which is then attached to the midsole or outsole, allowing the shoe to be resoled

Gore: in footwear, an elastic gusset that is used to provide a snug fit, usually on slip-on styles

Gore-Tex®: patented waterproof system that is impervious to rain, snow or sleet, while allowing perspiration to pass through

Green Rubber™ Sole: environmentally conscious sole made from recycled rubber tires

Gripper Waistband: flexible, non-constricting material comfortably holds garment in place

GripZone: in golf shoes, the footbed surface locks the bottom of the foot securely in place during the swing, enhancing control and stability

Grommet: a reinforced eyelet in a garment through which a fastener is passed; also used for underarm ventilation

Gusset: a piece of fabric inserted into a seam to provide extra room and reduce stress on the seams

H

Hand Treated: washed for an already worn, broken-in look and feel

Heathered: use of lighter and darker contrasting colors to produce a mottled effect

Herringbone: pattern that slants in alternate directions to form a series of parallel Vs or zigzags

Hidden Gore: in footwear, an elastic gusset that provides a snug fit, which is concealed by the shoe's tongue

Houndstooth: a weave in which the yarns are interlaced to produce a broken check pattern

Hydromove: fabric technology that transports moisture away from the skin to the surface of the material for rapid evaporation

I

Individual-Fit™ Waist: provides an undetectable extra inch in the waistband

Inseam: measurement from bottom of crotch area to lower ankle

Insole: the footbed of a shoe or boot, on which the foot rests

Instep: the upper, center section of the foot, between the toes and ankle

J

Jacket-Relaxer™: innovative stretch knit panels sewn into a jacket's lining that move and stretch with you, allowing shoulders extended range of movement

Jacquard: process of weaving repetitive patterns for a slightly raised effect

Jersey Knit: fabric without a distinct rib that is usually stretchy, breathable, and lightweight

K

Kangaroo Pocket: usually on sweatshirts or other casual attire, an oversized front pocket, which can also be used as a hand warmer

Kiltie: a decorative, fringed tongue over the vamp of a shoe

L

Lambswool: the highest quality wool taken from a sheep, it is soft, resilient and smooth, with superior spinning properties

Last: a form that matches the contours of the foot, over which a shoe is fashioned

Linen: cool, absorbent fabric that is stronger and more lustrous than cotton

Locker Loop: a small loop of fabric sewn on back of a shirt near the neckline

Loose Fit: sits at natural waist; loose through hip and thigh; slightly tapered leg opening

Lug Sole: a heavy-tread, rubber sole that provides high durability and prevents slipping

Lycra®: elastic, synthetic fiber that provides strength and 'give' for more freedom of movement and better shape retention

M

Madras: threads of uneven thickness create a textured look and form a repeating pattern of stripes, checks or plaids

Manmade Materials: materials other than genuine leather, which are designed to look or function like leather; also known as synthetic materials

Mercerized: finishing process that strengthens cotton and results in a softer fabric with a slight sheen

Merino Wool: high-quality wool yarn that resembles the soft hand of cashmere

Microfiber: synthetic fibers that are finer than silk, which are lightweight, durable, and breathable

Microfleece: lightweight, double-sided microfiber fleece noted for its outstanding pill resistance, stretch, and chamois-like softness

Microsanded: unique process of brushing done to fabric that removes its toughness for an extremely soft feel

Microsuede: nylon/polyester blended yarn that is brushed twice to achieve a suede-like look and feel

Midsole: the layer of material between the innersole and sole, used for reinforcement or cushioning

Mitered Cuff: cuff style in which the corners are cut at a 45-degree angle

Moc Toe: seams or stitches run along the toe cap to give a gathered, ruched effect

Monk Strap: dress shoe fastened with buckle across instep

N

Nano-Dry™ Technology: permanent moisture control fabric enhancement keeps you cooler in warm weather and provides maximum soil resistance

Nano-Tex™: revolutionary technology resists spills, repels stains, wicks away moisture, and resists static

Nappa Leather: a supple version of sheepskin

Neck-Relaxer® Tab: hidden stretch tab in neck expands up to one full neck size for added comfort

NIKE AIR Technology: pressurized air pads of varying pressure absorb the shock of impact

Notched Lapel: the most common lapel used on suit coats, sewn to the collar at an angle, for a step effect

Nubuck: lightweight, supple full-grain leather that is treated with a sanding process to provide a suede-like appearance

Nylon: synthetic fiber that is highly durable, resilient, flexible, and resists abrasion

O

On-Seam Pocket: sewn on the inside of garment with its pocket opening sewn onto an opening in the seam

Open Sleeves: sleeves which have no binding at the sleeve ends

OrthoLite®: insole made of polyurethane and rubber that keeps the foot dry, odor-free, and minimizes bacteria

Outseam: the distance from the bottom of a trouser leg to the top of the trousers at the waist

Outsole: the bottom outer sole of a shoe

Overdyed: a second dyeing process, which matches thread color to jeans color

Oxford: in footwear, a style of shoe with enclosed lacing

P

Patch Pocket: pocket sewn to the outside of a garment

Peached Finish: finish applied to washed poplin with a light nap that creates a soft, supple, 'peach fuzz' feel

Peak Lapel: the top line slants up from the horizontal, coming to a point and leaving only a narrow space between the collar and the lapel

Permanent Crease: chemically or mechanically manufactured so garment stays creased even after washing

Peruvian Cotton: a finer quality cotton, known for its long fibers, soft texture, and rugged durability

Pick Stitch: a small, running hand stitch at the edge of a collar or lapel, a hallmark of a high-end suit or jacket

Pigment Dyed: process in which the fabric is dyed with a pigment that is then partially washed out, creating a worn, slightly uneven appearance

Pima Cotton: superior blend of cotton, extremely durable and absorbent

Pinpoint: fine, very tightly woven oxford cloth with a soft, silky feel and remarkable durability

Piqué Knit: a pebble-like finish; used mainly in short-sleeved polos and tees

Placket: fabric that surrounds and reinforces a closure in a garment

Play Dry®: process in which the fabric's base layer moves moisture, accelerates ventilation, and reduces abrasion without trapping the body's thermal energy

Play Warm®: moisture management system features a 'cover layer' that creates 'dead air' space to slow the body's thermal energy loss, while assisting in the dispersion of moisture

Point Collar: edges point downward with little space between where collar meets; best for stockier features

Polarfleece®: the original synthetic fleece fabric is warm, quick-drying and long-lasting

Polartec®: a trademark used for a fleecy synthetic fabric that is warm, lightweight, and water-resistant

Polyester: manmade fiber that resists wrinkling, stretching and shrinking; quick drying and highly resistant to abrasion

Polyfill: a polyester fiber used mainly for insulation, but also as a base for quilting

Polypropylene: a polymer fiber that does not absorb moisture but wicks moisture away from the skin

Polyurethane: a heavier, less responsive, yet more durable midsole material

Poplin: a plain, tightly woven fabric with a heavier weft, creating a pronounced rib

Powerband Chassis: in golf shoes, a unique cradling TPU-midsole frame that is designed to improve leverage and weight shift for maximum energy transfer throughout the golf swing

Prewashed: process in which the garment is washed during creation to create a softer texture and faded appearance

PVC: polyvinyl chloride, a plastic application used to waterproof a garment

R

Relaxed Fit: sits just below natural waist; roomy fit through seat and thigh; slightly wider leg opening

Retro: style designed to resemble fashions of a past era in history

Ribbed Knit: double-knit fabric in which the rib wales intermesh alternatively on the front and back of the fabric, for good elasticity and shape retention; commonly used on shirt cuffs and collars

Ringspun Cotton: fabric undergoes a process that makes the raw cotton smoother for softness and comfort; compacts the fabric for more durable wear

Ripstop: nylon or cotton fabric that has a square grid of reinforcing thread woven in, to prevent continuous tearing of the fabric

Rise: length between top of waistband and bottom of crotch

Rollbar® Technology: in footwear, a molded piece of graphite material is positioned in the heel, providing motion control, maximizing rear foot stability, and preventing excess pronation

S

Sandwashed: garment washing process intended to remove stiffness, making it soft to the touch

Sansabelt®: brand of men's trousers featuring a wide elastic band sewn into the waist to enhance the appearance of the pelvic area, intended to make a belt unnecessary

Scotchguard™: water-repellent treatment which allows the garment or shoe to resist moisture and stains

Shawl Collar: a one-piece collar which is turned down to form a continuous line around the back of the neck to the front

Shearling: sheepskin or lambskin with wool still attached; often used to line shoes or boots

Shirttail Hem: curved hem dips lower in front and back so shirt stays neatly tucked in

Shoulder Pleats: pleats in back add fullness for better range of motion; also give shirt a more tailored look

Side Seam Pocket: pocket opening that is incorporated into the side seam of a garment

Side Tabs: make the waistband adjustable, usually with two buttons and a fabric tab

Side Vent: slit at the bottom of a side seam that allows for better comfort and ease of movement

Single-Needle Stitching: fabric is sewn twice, once up and once down the seam, leaving only a single row of stitches visible; will not pucker as double-needle seams can

Slash Pocket: pocket extending diagonally from the front of the waistband to the side seam

Sole: the bottom part of a shoe, not including the heel

SpEVA® Midsole: proprietary material that improves bounce-back characteristics, attenuates shock on impact, and decreases midsole breakdown

Split Seam Waistband: an interrupted waistband with an overlap, which can expand within certain limits

Split Toe: dress shoe with a vertical seam running down center of toe box

Spread Collar: smaller styling with a wider spread; best for slimmer features

Stain-Defender™: performance fabric provides excellent stain repellency against a variety of water and oil-based spills

Stain-Fighter™: a protective coating that causes soil and moisture to bead up and be repelled, rather than be absorbed by the fabric

Sta-Prest® Finish: features a permanent crease and is soil-resistant

Stonewashed: process in which the fabric is heavily washed for a weathered look, resulting in a softer fabric and reduced shrinking

Straight Hem with Side Vents: same or varied length straight hems with vents at sides for ease of movement

Stretch-Guard™ Panels: sewn into the armholes of suit jackets for freedom of movement and extraordinary comfort

Sueded Cotton: a fabric that goes through a brushing process to raise the nap and give the garment a soft hand

Supima® Cotton: a superior form of Pima cotton, grown in the US

Supplex®: a DuPont trademarked nylon fabric that is soft and supple like cotton, yet durable and quick-drying; is also stain, fade and shrink resistant

S.U.P.R.O. Sock Technology: (Super Underfoot Pedorthic Radical Orthotic) revolutionary orthotic cradles the foot in contoured padding and provides excellent shock absorption in heel and forefoot

Synthetic Materials: materials other than genuine leather, which are designed to look or function like leather; also known as manmade materials

T

Taped Seams: provide excellent shape retention and a neater appearance

Teflon® Stain Resistance: a fabric protector that delivers durable, long-lasting protection, guarding fibers from oil- and water-based stains, dust and soil

Tencel®: a soft, comfortable fiber with ideal moisture wicking properties

Tennistail Hem: hem that is slightly longer in back so the shirt can be tucked in and stay tucked in

Thinsulate®: a low-bulk insulation made of fibers that are around ten times smaller than other synthetic insulations; efficiently traps air and maintains warmth, and holds up to repeated washings or dry cleanings

THiNTech® Technology: in golf shoes, a low-profile system that promotes consistent ball-striking through added stability and improved footwork

Thong: in footwear, an open-toed sandal with a V-strap which fits between the big and second toes

Thread Count: refers to the number of threads that are used in a square inch of fabric; high thread count denotes a finer weave or fabric

Tinted Finish: jeans dyed a second time, usually with a yellow hue, to create a vintage look

Tipping: contrast striping found on the outer edge of a collar, sleeve cuff or bottom of garment

TRAXION®: footwear technology designed to maximize ground grip and provide maximum comfort due to an even distribution of pressure

Triple-Needle Stitching: a finish used on a sleeve or hem that uses three needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching; results in added durability and a more finished appearance

Tumbled Leather: created through a process that uses small pebbles to gently abrade the leather, which provides a soft texture and subtle sheen, for an upscale, yet casual, appearance

U

Ultrasuede: microfiber with the look and feel of suede; it is machine washable, wrinkle- and shrink-resistant, and colorfast

Upper: the upper part of a shoe, not including the sole

V

Vamp: the front part of a shoe upper that covers the toes and part of the foot

Venetian: in footwear, a slip-on style that has no decorative adornments

Vibram® Sole: typically found on hiking boots, an outsole that has excellent non-slip and durability properties

W

Waffle Knit: a waffled, or squared, pattern knit or woven into a garment

Waist-Relaxer®: hidden waistband expands up to 4' for better comfort and fit

Watch Pocket: a small pocket located along the front waistband of pants or shorts

Weft: a filling thread or yarn that runs horizontally in weaving

Welt Pocket: found usually on a jacket chest, this type of pocket is set in to the jacket, rather than applied onto it

Whiskered: finishing process that produces lighter lines that look like wrinkles, usually near crotch and behind knees

Wicking: fabric property that draws moisture away from the skin and up to the surface, resulting in drier, more breathable fabric

Windowpane: checkered pattern characterized by vertical and horizontal lines that intersect to form a windowpane design; commonly used in dress shirts and suits

WindTec®: performance fabric that provides incredible wind protection

Wingtip: formal dress shoe with an overlay of decorative punched perforations on the toe and front of shoe

Worsted Wool: smooth, compact yarns are highly durable and versatile; this fine material is more wrinkle resistant and holds a crease well; ideal for men's suits and sport jackets

Y

Yarn-Dyed: process in which the yarns are colored before the fabric is woven

Yoke: a 'band' at the top of a garment over the shoulder area; may be a separate piece of fabric seamed into the lower part of garment, or may be a patterned area across chest and shoulder area

Z

ZeroG® Technology: combines a lightweight shock-absorbing midsole with athletic construction, for almost weightless comfort

Zipper Tie: a pre-knotted tie with a hidden zipper inside which lets you easily adjust the tie